This indicates no power is getting to the controller.

Here are some steps to determine if the charger and/or battery is OK.

A) Unplug the battery from the controller, then plug the charger into the wall and into the Ridekick controller.  The controller should turn on and display L9 (If there is an error code like E2, then press the battery button to see the charge level.) If that works, the charger is providing full charge voltage.

B) Next, plug in the battery.
* If the battery needs charging, the display will show L8 or less. As it charges, the display will increase over the next 10 minutes and eventually to L9 before 3 hours. If not, then the battery has an issue.
* If the battery shows a charge over L4, when the charger is disconnected, the controller should turn on and function properly.

C) After full charge, disconnect the charger and the battery should keep the display at L9.
* If the charge level drops within 10 minutes without motor power, then the battery has very little capacity left. It needs replacement.
* Take it for a test ride. If the controller turns off or shows “L-” when accelerating, AND you have a SLA battery, then check the 4 connections inside the battery bag. They need to be tight or it can cause “low voltage” even with a good battery. This video will help describe the possible issue.   battery contact video
* If the battery shows low charge level after 1-3 miles, then the battery is not good and will get worse as you use it.

This indicates no power is getting to the controller.

Here are some steps to determine if the charger and/or battery is OK.

Information: the battery has a Battery Management System (BMS) circuit board inside to balance the lithium cells, protect the battery, and protect people using it. The charger will only charge the battery when the BMS allows it.

A) Connect the battery to the controller and plug the charger into the wall and into the Ridekick controller.  The controller should turn on and display L0 to L9 (If there is an error code like E2, then press the battery button to see the charge level.)
If the level is below L9, then the charger fan should turn on, LED2 turns red, and charging is happening. The battery display level should increase to L9 within 4 hours.

When fully charged, LED2 will turn green, the fan will shut off and the battery is charged. It is OK to leave the charger on and plugged in overnight. The system will balance and not overcharge.

B) Check that the controller display is set for LiFePO4.
To change from LA (SLA battery) to Li (lithium battery):
* LA is the default setting, to change settings –  turn the controller on
* Press and hold the “battery” button
* While still pressing the “battery” button, press the “+” button (LA or Li should appear in the LED window – you can release all buttons now)
* Press the “>” button to toggle between LA and Li.
* When you are at the desired setting press the “battery” button

C) If the system should be charging and the fan doesn’t turn on or LED2 doesn’t turn green, then the charger is not working.
* Check that the voltage input setting is correct for your power. In the US, 115V is generally the correct setting.

D) If the controller will not turn on with the battery connected
1) If you have access to a voltmeter, check if the battery output is over 22 volts. If it is over 22V, then the controller has a problem. Get in touch with us at support@ridekick.com

E) After full charge, disconnect the charger and the battery should keep the display at L9.
* If the charge level drops within 10 minutes without motor power, then the battery has very little capacity left. It needs replacement.
* Take it for a test ride. If the controller turns off or shows “L-” when accelerating, then check the connector that it is completely connected.
* If the battery shows low charge level after 1-3 miles, then the battery is not good. 

There are 2 items to check first.

a) if only 1 LED is lit, this condition may indicate that the connection to the wall is not complete and the battery is connected.

–> to fix this, please disconnect the charger from the battery, plug the charger into the wall, and make sure that 2 LEDs are lit.

If the LEDs are not on, try pressing the plug into the charger more completely

b) if 2 LEDs are on, (LED1 = red LED2=green) connect the charger to the battery. If the LED2 stays green, then the voltage selector switch may not be correct.
–> to fix this, check the switch setting. (See photos in the entry above.)
Use a pen or other object to slide the switch to the 115V position.

If the above are set correctly, the following instructions should work.
Check that the fan is running – that indicates charging is active.
Charger Operation and LEDs:
* Plug the charger into the wall outlet:
LED1 should turn on red and LED2 should be green
* Connect the charger to the battery directly, or to the controller charger wire when the battery is connected to the controller.
LED2 should turn red if charging is required, and the fan may turn on as well.
–> When charging is complete, LED2 will change to green, and the fan will turn off.

This indicates the throttle is disconnected.

First check the TWO connections: one at the hitch, and the second is behind the battery near the base of the controller.

If the “E2” error goes away, you win 🙂

If “E2” persists, then use this diagnostic to help locate the wire problem:
* Turn the controller on with the throttle connected
* At the same time, press the “+” button and the “>” button,
* Your display should go to “00”, and the motor is now disconnected and safe.
* Cycle the throttle and watch the display go from “00” to “99” and everywhere in between. The decimal points on the display will light up if the connector or wires become disconnected. If you see no decimal points, this indicates “GOOD” operation.
* If you don’t get proper indications, try re-seating each of the two connectors.
* During the test this is a good time to flex the wires and wiggle the connections to locate where the intermittent fault is located.

* Next, if you think the hitch bar cable is suspect, try bypassing the hitch bar cable by plugging the throttle jack directly into the side port on the controller and repeat the test.
* By comparing the results you can most likely figure out which wire is bad.
* To get out of the test mode, press the “battery” button or turn the controller off.

This is a rare error code. First power OFF then ON and see if the error is reproducible.

Check the fuse on the side of the controller.

The E4 error sometimes is triggered by a very low battery. If there are battery issues, then address them first.

If that doesn’t fix it, please contact us.

In some instances the motor connector becomes disconnected. Disconnect it, examine the two parts for any damage or deformity, then reconnect. The problem should disappear.

If it persists, the motor cable may be at fault. Try gently pushing and pulling the cable and see if that indicates the wiring is the problem.

Still persists? Please contact us.

This is uncommon. First power OFF then ON and see if the error is reproducible.

If it persists, please contact us.

Remove anything in the USB and in the round accessory port. That should clear the error after turning the controller off then on again.

This error should not stop the motor, so continue riding while the problem is addressed.

The motor and controller will get hot when helping you climb hills, and especially at low speed. To prevent permanent damage the motor and controller, the system measures temperature and turns off power above 107C (224F).

On the 2016 and newer models, as it cools down, the power will automatically be enabled after it cools 10 degrees (usually about 40 seconds.) On the older models, the controller needs to be turned off then on again to reset the overheat protection.

Changing from P2 to P1 decreases the maximum current and therefore helps delay overheating too.

Read more about climbing hills at slow speed in the E9 section below.

Stall condition is when the motor is commanded to provide full power, and the wheel is stopped or rotating very slowly. A high power stall will ruin a motor, so protections are built in to the Ridekick trailer.

It will happen in two situations:
1) When stopped, with brakes on, and full throttle for a few seconds. Avoid doing this.
2) When riding up a hill at full power and going less than 6 mph.
It is perfectly OK to travel at very slow speeds at partial throttle.

Regarding the E9 errors when riding up a hill, the rule of thumb is it will continuously assist you above 6 or 7 mph. If you can pedal enough to keep the speed over 6 mph, then you are good to go. Here is a more detailed description.

The system works more efficiently (stays cooler) at higher speeds. If the hills are very steep and you can’t pedal enough to stay above 6 mph, then the controller senses high motor current at low speed (this is the problem zone) and turns the motor off after 20 seconds under 6 mph.
It will display E9. Simply turn the controller OFF then ON and get back on and ride (no need to wait).  You can extend the 20 second rule a bit by changing the power setting from high performance (P2) to lower current (P1) for extended range.

The power trailer is designed as an assist. If the hill is too steep for the rider and power assist to crest the hill, then another route is required.

To change from P2 to P1: (P1 is less kick and more range.  P2 is more kick and less range.)
* P2 is the default setting, to change settings –  turn the controller on* Press and hold the “battery” button
* While still pressing the “battery” button, press the “next” button (P2 or P1 should appear in the LED window – you can release all buttons now)
* Press the “next” button to toggle between P1 and P2.
* When you are at the desired setting press the “battery” button